Scarpa Instinct VS Women’s Climbing Shoes Review

The Scarpa Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoes – Women’s and What It Taught Me

The Scarpa Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoes – Women’s represent a pinnacle of performance-oriented climbing footwear, tailored specifically for the female foot. Scarpa, a brand synonymous with quality and innovation in the climbing world, has engineered these shoes to deliver unparalleled precision and power on the wall. Designed with aggressive downturn and a Vibram XS Grip2 sole, these shoes promise exceptional grip and sensitivity.

My search for the perfect climbing shoe began with a persistent problem: my feet were slipping on overhanging routes, and I lacked confidence on small edges. I needed a shoe that would provide aggressive edging power, a snug fit, and the sensitivity to feel every hold. I was tired of blaming my shoes for failed sends.

Upon unboxing the Scarpa Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoes – Women’s, I was immediately struck by the vibrant Black/Aqua color scheme and the shoe’s aggressive, downturned shape. The materials felt high-quality, with the microsuede upper exuding a sense of durability and comfort, while the heat-welded reinforcements hinted at long-lasting performance. The weight felt surprisingly light for such a performance-oriented shoe, which sparked excitement for what was to come.

I considered the La Sportiva Miura VS and the Five Ten Hiangle before settling on the Scarpa Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoes – Women’s. I picked the Scarpa because of its reputation for a slightly narrower fit, which I hoped would better suit my foot shape, and because of the rave reviews about the Vibram XS Grip2 rubber. The Miura VS, while an excellent all-around shoe, seemed slightly less aggressive, and the Hiangle’s soft rubber felt less supportive for edging. My initial excitement was confirmed; these shoes looked and felt like they could take my climbing to the next level.

Real-World Testing: Putting Scarpa Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoes – Women’s to the Test

First Use Experience

My initial test of the Scarpa Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoes – Women’s took place at my local climbing gym. I focused on bouldering problems with steep overhangs and small crimps. The shoes immediately felt secure and precise, allowing me to stick tiny footholds I had previously struggled with.

The Scarpa Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoes – Women’s performed exceptionally well, especially in overhanging terrain. The aggressive downturn allowed me to pull with my toes, and the Vibram XS Grip2 rubber provided excellent friction, even on slick, polished holds. They required minimal break-in time, feeling comfortable yet supportive from the first climb.

Extended Use & Reliability

After several weeks of consistent use, the Scarpa Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoes – Women’s continue to impress. The durability of the microsuede upper and heat-welded reinforcements is evident; there are minimal signs of wear despite the intense use. They have become my go-to shoes for challenging boulder problems and demanding sport climbs.

Maintaining the Scarpa Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoes – Women’s has been relatively straightforward. I wipe them down with a damp cloth after each session to remove chalk and dirt, and I store them in a cool, dry place. Compared to my previous climbing shoes, which quickly lost their shape and support, the Scarpa Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoes – Women’s have maintained their performance and fit remarkably well. They have exceeded my expectations, providing a significant improvement in my climbing performance.

Breaking Down the Features of Scarpa Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoes – Women’s

Specifications

• Manufacturer: Scarpa
• Gender: Female
• Outsole Material: Forefoot Vibram XS Grip2, 3.5mm; Heel Vibram XS Grip2, 2mm. This provides exceptional grip on a variety of surfaces, crucial for secure foot placements.
• Midsole Material: Flexan 1.0mm. The Flexan midsole provides a balance of stiffness and sensitivity, offering support for edging without sacrificing feel.
• Upper Material: Microsuede with Heat Welded Reinforcements. The microsuede upper offers a comfortable and durable fit, while the heat-welded reinforcements enhance durability in high-wear areas.
• Closure: Lace. The lace closure allows for a precise and customizable fit, ensuring maximum performance.
• Weight: 1 lb (per pair). This lightweight design minimizes fatigue during long climbs.
• Color: Black/Aqua.
• Footwear Type: Shoes
• Activity: Climbing
• Women’s Shoe Width: Medium
• Footwear Upper Fabric/Material: Microsuede

These specifications combine to create a high-performance climbing shoe that excels in demanding conditions. The Vibram XS Grip2 rubber, in particular, is renowned for its exceptional stickiness, giving climbers the confidence to tackle challenging routes.

Performance & Functionality

The Scarpa Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoes – Women’s excels in providing precision, power, and sensitivity. Its aggressive downturn and Bi-Tension active rand allows for maximum toe power, making it ideal for steep terrain and small edges. The Strategically placed Vibram XS Edge in the forefoot and XS Grip 2 in the heel provides enhanced grip where it’s needed most.

The shoe’s strengths lie in its ability to provide exceptional edging power, sensitivity, and a secure fit. One area for potential improvement could be the overall comfort for longer multi-pitch climbs. The shoe met my expectations, providing a noticeable boost to my climbing performance.

Design & Ergonomics

The Scarpa Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoes – Women’s is designed with a focus on performance and a sleek aesthetic. The microsuede upper provides a comfortable and snug fit, molding to the foot over time.

The shoe is user-friendly, with the lace closure allowing for a precise and customizable fit. While the aggressive downturn may take some getting used to for climbers accustomed to flatter shoes, the learning curve is relatively short.

Durability & Maintenance

The Scarpa Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoes – Women’s is built to last, with high-quality materials and construction. The microsuede upper and heat-welded reinforcements provide excellent durability, withstanding the rigors of frequent climbing.

Maintaining the shoes is relatively easy; regular cleaning with a damp cloth and proper storage will help prolong their lifespan. With proper care, these shoes should last for several seasons of intense climbing.

Accessories and Customization Options

The Scarpa Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoes – Women’s does not come with any specific accessories beyond the standard shoe bag. However, the lacing system allows for some customization of the fit.

The shoes are compatible with after-market toe hooks. The aggressive downturn and sticky rubber also make them ideal for using after-market heel hooks for extra grip.

Pros and Cons of Scarpa Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoes – Women’s

Who Should Buy Scarpa Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoes – Women’s?

• Perfect for: Experienced climbers looking for a high-performance shoe for bouldering and sport climbing, especially on steep terrain and small edges. They’re also great for climbers who value a precise fit and superior grip.
• Who should skip this product? Beginners or climbers primarily focused on crack climbing may find the aggressive downturn uncomfortable and unnecessary. Those seeking an all-day comfort shoe for multi-pitch routes may also want to consider a different option.
• Must-have accessories or modifications? A climbing brush to clean holds and shoe rubber, and potentially aftermarket toe caps to prolong the life of the shoe.

Conclusion on Scarpa Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoes – Women’s

The Scarpa Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoes – Women’s are an exceptional choice for serious climbers seeking a performance-oriented shoe that delivers precision, power, and sensitivity. While the aggressive downturn may not be for everyone, those who prioritize performance on steep terrain and small edges will find these shoes to be a game-changer.

The price is justified given the high-quality materials, construction, and the significant improvement in climbing performance they provide. I wholeheartedly recommend the Scarpa Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoes – Women’s to any experienced climber looking to push their limits and send their projects. Step into a pair and experience the difference!