C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express Quickdraw Review

What I Wish I Knew Before Buying the C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw

The C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw is C.A.M.P.’s top-tier offering for sport climbers seeking lightweight performance and cutting-edge technology. It combines the Photon straight gate carabiner on the bolt end with the Dyon KeyWire carabiner on the rope end. This quickdraw promises a smooth clipping experience, high strength, and innovative features like the SphereLock closure.

I was looking to upgrade my quickdraws to something lighter and easier to clip while projecting sport routes. My old draws were heavy and the gates were often sticky, making clipping a frustrating and energy-sapping process. I needed draws that would give me a performance edge without sacrificing safety or durability.

Upon unboxing the C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw, I was immediately struck by its lightweight feel and sleek design. The contrasting carabiners—the robust Photon and the minimalist Dyon KeyWire—create a visually appealing and functionally distinct system. The build quality felt exceptional, with smooth gate action and solid construction.

Compared to the Petzl Spirit Express and the Black Diamond Oz Quickdraw, the C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw stood out due to its unique KeyWire gate and the Karstop Evo carabiner retainer. While the Spirit Express is a tried-and-true workhorse, and the Oz Quickdraw is incredibly light, the Dyon’s combination of features seemed to offer the best balance of weight, performance, and innovation. I was particularly excited about the SphereLock closure, hoping it would eliminate any gate wobble.

My first impression was one of excitement and cautious optimism. The draw felt incredibly light and the gate action was noticeably smooth, but I needed to see how it performed in the real world before making a final judgment.

Real-World Testing: Putting C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw to the Test

First Use Experience

I tested the C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw at my local sport climbing crag, a limestone wall known for its steep, overhanging routes. I wanted to see how the draws performed on routes that required precise clipping and minimal weight. The conditions were dry and sunny, perfect for pushing my limits.

The Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw performed exceptionally well under these conditions. The Photon carabiner clipped smoothly into the bolts, while the Dyon KeyWire made rope clipping effortless. The variable-width dogbone felt comfortable in my hand, making it easy to grab the draw when needed. The lightweight nature of the draw was immediately noticeable, reducing fatigue on long reaches.

There were no issues or surprises during the first use. The draw performed exactly as advertised, providing a smooth and efficient clipping experience. I was particularly impressed with the KeyWire gate, which felt more secure and less prone to gate flutter than traditional wire gates.

Extended Use & Reliability

After several months of regular use, the C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw has held up remarkably well. There are no signs of significant wear and tear on the carabiners or dogbone. The gate action remains smooth and consistent, even after exposure to dirt and grime.

The Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw has proven to be highly durable. The anodized finish on the carabiners has resisted scratches and abrasions, and the dogbone shows no signs of fraying or weakening. The Karstop Evo retainer has kept the rope-end carabiner properly oriented, preventing cross-loading and ensuring safe clipping.

Maintaining the Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw is relatively easy. I occasionally clean the carabiners with warm water and mild soap to remove dirt and grime. The dogbone is machine washable, which is a convenient feature for removing sweat and chalk.

Compared to my previous quickdraws, the C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw outperforms them in almost every way. It’s lighter, easier to clip, and more durable. The innovative features, such as the KeyWire gate and SphereLock closure, provide a noticeable improvement in performance and safety.

Breaking Down the Features of C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw

Specifications

• Carabiners: Photon (straight gate) on bolt end, Dyon KeyWire on rope end. The Photon offers easy clipping into bolts. The Dyon KeyWire combines the benefits of wiregate lightness and keylock security.
• Dogbone: Variable width polyester, 11cm or 18cm lengths available. The variable width makes it easier to grab. The polyester construction offers durability and resistance to abrasion.
• Gate Closure: SphereLock on the Dyon KeyWire carabiner. The SphereLock minimizes gate play for enhanced safety. It’s an upgrade to traditional keylock systems.
• Gate Strength (Open): 11 kN (Dyon KeyWire). This high open gate strength enhances safety.
• Karabiner Retainer: Karstop Evo on the rope end. The Karstop Evo prevents cross-loading of the carabiner.
• Weight: Varies depending on length. Expect a lightweight design for performance climbing. This reduces overall weight on your harness.

These specifications matter because they contribute to the overall performance, safety, and user experience of the quickdraw. The lightweight design reduces fatigue, while the high strength ratings ensure safety in the event of a fall. The innovative features, like the KeyWire gate and SphereLock closure, provide a noticeable improvement in clipping efficiency and security.

Performance & Functionality

The C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw excels at its primary function: providing a secure and efficient connection between the rope and the bolt. The smooth gate action and ergonomic design make clipping easy and intuitive. The lightweight nature of the draw reduces fatigue on long routes.

The strength of the Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw lies in its innovative features and high-quality construction. The Dyon KeyWire gate, with its SphereLock closure, provides a smooth and secure clipping experience. One potential weakness is the price, which is higher than some other quickdraws on the market.

The C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw meets and exceeds my expectations. It has proven to be a reliable and high-performing piece of gear. It significantly improved my clipping efficiency and reduced fatigue on challenging sport routes.

Design & Ergonomics

The build quality of the C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw is exceptional. The materials used are high-quality and durable, and the construction is solid and precise. The draw feels lightweight yet robust, inspiring confidence in its performance.

The C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw is user-friendly, with a comfortable grip and intuitive clipping action. There is no learning curve involved. Even climbers with limited experience can quickly master its use.

Durability & Maintenance

The C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw is designed to last. The high-quality materials and robust construction ensure that it can withstand the rigors of regular use. With proper care, it should provide years of reliable service.

Maintaining the C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw is simple and straightforward. Regular cleaning with warm water and mild soap is all that is required to keep it in good condition. The machine-washable dogbone is an added convenience.

Accessories and Customization Options

The C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw comes with the Karstop Evo carabiner retainer as an integral part of the design. This isn’t an accessory, but it is crucial for function. The primary customization option is selecting between the 11cm and 18cm dogbone lengths.

While the C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw is designed to work with standard climbing ropes and bolts, it may not be compatible with certain oversized or non-standard gear. Always check for compatibility before using the quickdraw with unfamiliar equipment.

Pros and Cons of C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw

Who Should Buy C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw?

The C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw is perfect for sport climbers who are serious about performance and weight savings. It is also well-suited for climbers who value innovative features and high-quality construction. This draw is a fantastic choice for anyone projecting difficult routes.

Climbers who are on a tight budget or who prioritize durability over weight savings might want to consider other options. Beginner climbers may not need the advanced features and higher price point of the Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw.

A must-have modification isn’t required. Consider rope protectors if you frequently climb routes with abrasive rock.

Conclusion on C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw

The C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw is an outstanding piece of climbing gear that delivers exceptional performance, safety, and innovation. Its lightweight design, smooth clipping action, and durable construction make it a top choice for serious sport climbers. The Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw is an investment in your climbing performance and safety.

The price of the C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw is justified by its superior performance and innovative features. While it may be more expensive than some other quickdraws, it offers a significant improvement in clipping efficiency and overall climbing experience. The quality justifies the cost.

I would highly recommend the C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw to any sport climber who is looking to upgrade their gear and improve their performance. This draw is a game-changer that will help you climb harder and safer. Invest in your climbing, get the C.A.M.P. Dyon Mixed Express KS Quickdraw today!